Walking alone in the dark. So I headed into town instead of out, past the overfull creek, the old railroad ties, the new hospital. I ended the night at One World Cafe, hardly a soul in the place, but a guitarist playing something light and soothing. I sipped peppermint tea, listened for a while, then headed out into the dark, cold spring warmed by tea and music.
Sled dogs have their own houses in Ilulissat, Greenland. One day last summer, I walked along the outskirts of town toward the Kangia Icefjord, the stench of urine and matted fur. The puppies run free, while the adult dogs fight against their chains, crying for seal meat, for freedom, for snow, for love. Listen, you can hear them even now.